The unfortunate fate of the historic Greyfriars Kirk on Frederick Street, Port-of-Spain, torn down by the greed for land, sloth of its elders, and comic nonchalance of the State, has signalled perhaps the death of the Scots Presbyterian Church in this nation which began its mission here in 1836, under the leadership of the Rev Alexander Kennedy.
Around 1845-46, there was considerable turmoil in Madeira in 1845-46 when the good and charitable works of the Rev Dr Robert Reid Kalley caused the conversion of over 5,000 natives from Catholicism. This naturally raised the ire of papists who attacked him both physically and institutionally. These refugees sought the shelter of British warships in the Madeiran area which took them to St Vincent and Trinidad. In the latter island, they were taken into the bosom of Rev Kennedy’s Scottish Presbyterian Church, but were looked down upon by the established local Madeiran community which saw them as heretics.
These first Madeirans in the island had originally come in the post emancipation period around 1836-38 as indentured labourers, but the vicissitudes of tropical climate had decimated them and many walked off the estates and became merchants and tradesmen in the poorer parts of the city. This first Madieran group was staunchly Roman Catholic.
About 500 of the Protestant arrivals did not stay long in the island and immigrated to the USA shortly before 1850. Those who remained sought to build their own church as a symbol of their piety. They had the support of Henrique Vieira of Madeira who was himself a victim of persecution. He searched for a site for the church and located one on St Ann’s Road (upper Charlotte Street was then called St Ann’s Road because it led directly to St Ann’s via Queen’s Park East) which cost $800. By dint of fervent and heartfelt pleading, Rev Vieira raised the sum for the purchase of the land and set to work building a small chapel of stone and wood which was called the Portuguese Church, United Free Church and Free Kirk, but was officially the St Ann’s Church of Scotland after its location on what was then St Ann’s Road. It was opened in 1854 just before a cholera epidemic ravaged Trinidad and swept away many of the faithful who had laboured in the construction of the chapel. The founding of the church was described in 1887 as follows:
“In 1848 it was reported to the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland that there were 900 Maderenses in the island. Mr de Silva, a catechist at first, was at length ordained as their pastor. His ministry, however, cut short by death, lasted only for a year. He was succeeded in 1850 by Mr Henry Vieira, in the first instance, as catechist, but in 1854, having been ordained by the Free Church Presbytery of Glasgow, he became pastor. In 1872 Mr Vieira accepted a call from a number of Maderenses who had settled in Illinois, but during his ministry in 1853, the Free Church in St Ann's Road had been built. In 1873, the Rev D M Walker, minister of Port Elizabeth, South Africa, a very worthy man, was selected as pastor, and accepted the appointment. For a time Mr Walker preached once every Sabbath in the Portuguese tongue, he having rapidly learned the language.”
By 1890, the chapel was showing signs of dereliction and one of the parishioners was none other than George Brown, the famous architect and builder who had come out to the island in 1880, and to whom Trinidad owes its archetypal ‘gingerbread’ house architecture. Brown designed a simple yet elegant stone building, larger than the old one. Some of the stone used in building the walls was obtained from The Cottage which was the residence of the Governor, built at the end of the 18th century and which stood on the grounds of the present Hilton Hotel. This structure was the official residence until the erection of a new one in 1876 which is now called President’s House.
In 1912, the church acquired a nearby building once used as a Masonic Lodge and a pipe organ. A fine stained-glass window was added in 1919 in memory of Ernest W Havelock, a young minister who enlisted as a soldier in World War I and who was killed in action in 1916. The St Ann’s Church of Scotland is still a quaint yet important reminder that with willpower, teamwork and leadership, great things are possible.